Blog-Stephen-Tanzer-2017

Puntajes Tanzer: 92 puntos para nuestros Ayni 2015 y Chakana Estate Selection Red Blend

En los últimos años, la crítica internacional ha puesto una atención siempre mayor en un estilo de vino más fresco, refinado, elegante y mineral. Ya no dominan esos vinos hiperconcentrados, sobremaduros y alcohólicos. Y con el mayor referente de aquel gusto – Robert Parker, el creador del celebre The Wine Advocate – ya casi retirado, hay otro periodista que se está afirmando como el referente mundial de la crítica enológica.

 

Stephen Tanzer fundó the International Wine Cellar (hoy adquirida por Vinous) en 1985. Y siempre se distinguió por su preferencia para vinos vibrantes y de climas frescos más que vinos maduros y alcohólicos, siempre favoreció la fineza sobre la potencia.

 

Y mientras otros grandes críticos se acercan a las posiciones de Tanzer, el periodista de New York sigue destacándose por su estilo limpio y parco con los grandes puntajes, por su escritura prolija y controlada. Otra gran diferencia con su némesis Parker.

 

Tanzer confirmó su impostación y este estilo peculiar también en su ultimo reporte sobre Argentina. En la presentación de sus puntajes escribe: “en los últimos años los mejores productores Argentinos ganaron mucha experiencia en conseguir uvas maduras (pero no sobre-maduras) también en temporadas más frías. (…) Una serie de añadas más frescas ha significado, por lo menos para los productores serios, vinos más balanceados y creciente número de vinos que muestran un distintivo carácter de terroir”.

 

En Chakana venimos trabajando en esta dirección hace años. Siempre buscamos equilibrio y elegancia en nuestros vinos, tratando de investigar, entender y finalmente expresar en la botella el terroir único de cada una de nuestras cinco fincas.

Por eso nos agrada mucho recibir excelentes comentarios como los que Stephen Tanzer dedicó a nuestros vinos en su última publicación sobre Argentina: nuestro Ayni 2015 ganó 92 puntos en su reporte, así como lo hizo el Estate Selection Red Blend 2015, mientras el Estate Selection Malbec 2015 obtuvo 90 puntos.

 

Estas son las notas de cata completas de Tanzer:

 

Ayni Malbec “Paraje Altamira” 2015

Luminoso rojo rubin.

 

92 pts

Stephen Tanzer. Tasting date: May 2017

Chakana 2015 Malbec Ayni

Paraje Altamira, Mendoza

Red wine from Argentina

Drinking window: 2018 – 2023

Bright ruby-red. Sexy scents and 􀃓avors of dark berries, mocha, minerals

and smoked meat. Concentrated, seamless wine with a captivating

restrained sweetness and terri􀃒c energy lending shape and de􀃒nition to

the middle palate. Serious 􀃒ne-grained tannins give this wine the structure

for mid-term aging. This wine struck me as clearly better–and longer–than

the 2014 version.

 

 

90 pts

Stephen Tanzer. Tasting date: May 2017

Chakana 2015 Malbec Estate Selection

Paraje Altamira, Mendoza

Red wine from Argentina

Drinking window: 2017 – 2022

Dark red. Musky aromas and 􀃓avors of cherry, raspberry and mocha.

Supple, attractively glyceral wine with a 􀃒ne-grained texture and good

sappy lift. Classy, delineated, savory Malbec with 􀃒rming spice and mineral

elements and subtle depth and breadth. Finishes with dusty, very 􀃒ne

tannins and building spicy length. This very suave Malbec displays subtle

salinity and restrained sweetness.

 

 

 

92 pts

Stephen Tanzer. Tasting date: May 2017

Chakana 2015 Red Blend Estate

Valle De Uco, Mendoza

Red wine from Argentina

Drinking window: 2018 – 2024

Bright, dark red with ruby highlights. Pure but subdued scents of dark

raspberry, pepper, chocolate and menthol. Fine-grained, savory and fresh;

an alluring, delineated midweight with spicy and 􀃓oral high notes to its

raspberry and currant fruit 􀃓avors. The peppery quality carries through

the wine and perks up the 􀃒nish. The tannins are 􀃒rm but harmonious.

This impeccably balanced, structured wine 􀃒nishes with 􀃒rm but

harmonious tannins and subtly palate-staining spicy length.

 

Tanzer es el nuevo referente mundial de la crítica de vinos (muerto el rey viva el rey), porque siempre sostuvo su inclinación por el estilo de vinos que hoy está finalmente obteniendo la preferencia de otros críticos emergentes y sommeliers de distintos lugares del mundo (Gutierrez, Tim Atkin, James Molesworth), y porque siempre fue muy austero y verosímil en sus puntajes. Por otro lado, prácticamente retirado Parker, Tanzer ha quedado solo en el podio.

Como el artículo es de 2012 hay que indicar que International Wine Cellar no existe más y fue comprado por Vinous, de la que hoy Tanzer es contribuidor.

 

Argentina’s best growers and winemakers have gained a great deal of experience in recent years at getting their fruit ripe (but not overripe) under cooler conditions. Their grapes have benefited from longer hang time and somewhat better retention of natural acidity. The succession of cooler years from 2013 through 2016 has meant, at least at the level of serious producers, better-balanced wines than ever before, and, in the case of single-site bottlings, a growing number of wines that display distinctive terroir character.

Stephen Tanzer is the editor and publisher of International Wine Cellar, a newsletter. His controlled prose is overshadowed by that of the more flamboyant Robert M. Parker Jr.’s Wine Advocate. Sometimes it’s hard to tell where Mr. Tanzer’s tastes lie, as he conscientiously considers each wine. But in his new book, The WineAccess Buyer’s Guide: The World’s Best Wines and Where to Find Them (Sterling Publishing, $14.95), he loosens up and offers more personal evaluations.

Mr. Tanzer visits wine regions around the world and offers quick assessments of the producers he considers to be the best, without confining himself to hard-to-find cult winemakers. It is compact, concise and clear, and it couldn’t be more useful.

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/12/06/dining/06pour.html

 

https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424127887323976104578199462080730782#project%3Dwine1229%26articleTabs%3Dinteractive

International Wine Cellar, which he has been writing and publishing since 1985

As the Parker era draws to a close, the vinous zeitgeist seems to have caught up with Mr. Tanzer, whose palate favors finesse over power. While there are many more sources of information and opinion than there were when he started the International Wine Cellar, very few are as comprehensive, or as informed.

 

His tasting notes have always been very precise and very readable—by no means the norm. He chose to adopt the hundred point rating system used by Mr. Parker’s Wine Advocate and the Wine Spectator, but over the years he’s developed a reputation for being a tougher grader than either of those publications—a fact confirmed in a recent study by the American Association of Wine Economists. He seems proud of his stinginess with big scores.

 

“I tend to be interested in cool-climate wines. A lot of California wines are too ripe.” Mr. Parker, by contrast, is famously enthusiastic about big, ripe wines from warm vintages.

 

Mr. Tanzer’s palate and his long-standing preferences seem very much aligned with current less-is-more trends in the wine world.